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Program II
Advanced Diamond Setting
Description of Subjects

 

Gemstone Characteristics
A knowledge of various gemstones is essential to successful stone setting. There will be a discussion on diamond and gemstone durability and the potential problems inherent to some stones.

Setting the Emerald Cut
Setting the emerald cut gemstone presents a challenge to many jewelers. The student will accomplish setting the emerald cut through demonstrations and practice.  The student will learn to undercut a seat and tighten the prongs to complete his/her setting.

Graver Design
One of the most important tools to the diamond setter is the graver.  It is used to work metal over a stone to set it or to remove metal to highlight the stone. Instruction will be given on the various types of gravers. The student will accomplish sharpening his/her graver to a mirror edge.

Bead Setting
Bead setting is a valuable technique for mounting a stone flush into a surface. The student will practice seating his/her stone, raising a bead to tighten it, and finish the set. Instruction will also include two methods for repairing worn beads.

Star Bright Cutting
Bright cutting a design around a gemstone will enhance it's size and beauty.  There will be a discussion on the techniques involved. The student will practice these techniques by bright cutting a star and bead setting a center stone.

Cluster Setting
The cost of large diamonds is bringing an ever increasing popularity for the cluster set. Instruction will be given on undercutting, shared prongs, proper setting order, and tightening.  There will be sufficient time given for the student to practice and complete his/her cluster setting.

Bar Setting
Accepting a wide range of stone sizes, the bar setting is one of the most common settings encountered. After a demonstration on two methods of bar setting, the student will choose one method and set a gemstone.

Block Bright Cutting
Block bright cutting continues the students experience using gravers. Starting with a flat sheet, various gravers, and step by step instructions, the student will bright cut reflective panels at a forty five degree angle and bead set his/her stone.  His/her setting will be completed with a millgrain edge.

The Tiffany Setting
Probably the most common style of ladies ring that is encountered is the tiffany mounting. Here the student will learn to install a tiffany head. The student will learn the do's and don'ts of repairing a tiffany head and he/she will finish by setting a one half carat cubic zirconia.

Channel Setting
Many contemporary rings styles incorporate the clean lines of channel set gemstones. After a detailed explanation of the process, the student will practice channel setting several matched stones. Several methods of tightening and repair will be discussed as well as care when sizing.

Gypsy Setting
This popular setting method can be found most often on gents rings, securing linde stars, tiger eyes, and other cabachon stones. The student will be given instruction, and one on one assistance to guide him/her through the cutting of his/her bearing and gypsy setting of his/her stone.

Setting Oval Stones
The oval is probably the most popular shape for semi-precious stones. The student will learn proper bur selection, seating, and tightening techniques to complete an oval setting.

Setting the Marquise
Beautiful, but delicate, best describes the marquise. With instruction and practice provided here, the student will set this fragile stone with confidence.

Setting Pear Shaped Stones
The pear shape gives the student the opportunity to combine several of the skills learned previously in the program.

Setting Baguettes
The student will learn new methods of cutting a seat and practice them while setting the baguettes.

Setting Heart Shaped Stones
Setting heart shaped stones completes the students training in setting fancy shaped stones.

Bright Cut Designs
The student designs a seven stone pattern. Two methods of layout are introduced. The project is completed with the accumulation of several previously learned skills.

Pave' Setting
Diamond setters are often judged by their ability to pave' set. The student, by this point, possesses the necessary skills for this type of setting. With some further instruction and guidance, each student will complete a pave' setting.

Building Cluster Heads
A trick is introduced that allows the student to hold many parts at once while soldering.  This gives the student the ability to build custom made cluster rings, repair filigree, and complete other difficult soldering jobs.

 

 

 

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Drouhard National Jeweler's School 2236 S. Main Street, Mansfield, Ohio 44907

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